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Ocean Interiors; Coastal Decor and Design inspired by the sea.


the Bluenose

Latitude: 44.64625
Longitude: -64.06723
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OCEAN INTERIORS - STEM TO STERN
If You're Lucky Enough To Live By The Sea, You're Lucky Enough!


Ocean Interiors, Taj Mahal or a tent, here are the standard designer measurements
for hanging lights or paintings, for sizing rugs or ceiling fans and so much more.

my he went well with her drapes


"as the crow flies"

Are Thread Counts a Sham??
22 key decorating measurements for your home
How to measure for pinch pleat drapes etc.
Measuring for Art placement
Sizing you ceiling fans
All about rugs, sizes and styles

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BUYING BEDDING BY THE THREAD COUNT - CAN BE A SHAM!

Demystifying Thread Count;
What to Consider When Buying Sheets
Release Date: Friday, January 20, 2006

New York, NY - Over the past few years, the notion of thread count has become increasingly influential in consumers’ sheet purchases. According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, 29percent of consumers surveyed in 2001 cited thread count as the most important element influencing the sheets they bought. That number rose to 34percent in 2005. Ironically, thread count and its role in the overall feel and comfort of sheets, is often misunderstood by these same consumers. To demystify thread count and sheet selection in general, Cotton Incorporated offers the following explanations and recommendations:

What is thread count?
Technically speaking, thread count is the number of threads, both vertical and horizontal, in a one-inch square of fabric.

“What many consumers don’t realize is that thread count is affected by a number of factors, including the ply and the thickness of the threads used,” explains Dana Poor, home trend forecaster for Cotton Incorporated.

Do One and One Equal Two…or One?
Ply refers to how many threads are wrapped together into a single thread. Single-ply fabrics, for example, use threads on their own, while two-ply fabrics are formed by two pieces of thread twisted together. And herein lies the confusion: Should a two-ply fabric’s threads be counted as one, single thread; or as two, individual threads? Or, more practically speaking, are those 600 thread count sheets truly 600 single-ply threads-per-inch, or are they 300 double-ply threads-per-inch?

Do the Numbers Matter?
The short answer is, no. The numbers don’t matter----at least not on their own. Another crucial element to the quality of a sheet is the thickness of the threads being used. “Using finer threads lets more thread to fit into that one square-inch measure,” states Poor. “Finer thread generally creates smoother, softer fabrics, and is part of the reason why high thread count fabrics are considered more desirable.” Finer threads also create a more delicate fabric. Sheets made of a two-ply fabric are stronger and more durable, but usually heavier.

What Are Some Other Factors?
While it has become common to select sheets based exclusively on thread count, it is important to take other considerations into account.

Poor elaborates, “The thing that I would stress is that high thread count should not be someone’s only barometer for buying a set of sheets. Thread count on its own does not convey many of the factors that comprise the end product.” For example, how the cotton is treated can be a much more decisive factor in comfort and overall feel than the thread count of a fabric, as can the final finishing of the fabric.

Another key factor is weave. Some of the more commonly-used weaves in bed sheets are:

Percale: a closely woven. Plain weave, spun fabric made from both carded and combed cotton. Percale sheeting is the finest available. The high tread count gives the fabric a silk-like feel.

Flannel: a soft, medium weight plain or twill weave fabric, usually made of cotton with a napped finish on one or both sides. The raised surface provides a fluffy appearance and supper soft, cozy feel. Great for warmth during the cold winter months.

Jersey: a plain stitch knitted cloth. The fabric is knitted in circular, flatbed or warp knitted methods. Very elastic with good draping qualities.

Sateen: a weave construction that has more yarn surface on the face of the cloth than other basic weaves giving a softer hand and more lustrous look.

The Look . . . The Feel
“At the end of the day, the best sheets you can buy are the ones that you think look good in your bedroom and that feel comfortable against your skin, says Poor. “ I can’t stress enough the value of actually touching the sheets before buying them.” These days, most of the better bedding retailers incorporate sheet samples within store displays for that very purpose.

One thing remains true, consumer studies have found that the majority of people want 100percent cotton sheets. Nature has given cotton attributes that make it a smother, softer and more comfortable choice. It’s breathable, so cotton sheets never feel sticky against your skin.

Cotton bed sheets also provide year-round comfort. The fiber provides cool comfort in the summer and holds a layer of warm air in the cold weather. Consumers can be sure they are purchasing 100percent sheets by looking for products that feature the Seal of Cotton trademark.


Length, mass, and temperature convergence

Specific gravity is commonly expressed in SI units or in reference to water. Since a cube with dimensions of 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm has volume of 1000 cm3 (often referred to as 1000 cc), which is 1 L, and when filled with water has a mass of 1 kg, water has an approximate specific gravity of 1 g/cm3 and will freeze at 0 degrees Celsius.




22 Key Measurements for Decorating and Remodeling Your House

Copyright © 2006 Julie Lohmeier
My Home Redux
http://www.myhomeredux.com/

Inevitably as you are planning a home or room remodeling project, you ask yourself if you have enough room, what size should this be, how should that be, how big should the handelier be. Be puzzle no more. Keep this list as a handy reference for 22 key measurements when decorating or remodeling your house:

1) Dining Room Chandelier Installation Height: 30" above the table for a 8' tall ceiling, 34" above the table if the ceiling is higher than 8'.

2) Dining Room Chandelier Width: 12" less than the narrowest side (width typically) of a rectangle or oval table, 18" less than the diameter of a square or round table.

3) Dining Room Chandelier Fixture Height: 3" per foot of ceiling height or 24" for a 8' ceiling.

4) Foyer Chandelier Fixture Height: 3" per foot of ceiling height with 30" maximum

5) Foyer Chandelier Installation Height: About 1/3 down from ceiling to base of fixture so that light disperses evenly in foyer. So for a 20' foyer, the base of the chandelier should be 6-7' below the ceiling.

6) Foyer Chandelier Width: 1" per foot of ceiling width measured diagonally. A 12'x12' foyer would require an 18" wide chandelier.

7) Wall Pictures or Hangings: At "eye level". That's a pretty wide range but typically around 65" off the floor. Check the
look by pinning a properly sized piece of paper on the wall with straight pins. Once correct, mark for the hanging hardware. Using 2 hooks is recommended to hang and keep a picture straight - assuming of course that your hooks are level!

8) Valance Height: No less than 1/4 and no more than 1/3 of your window height. That's why most pre-made valances are 15-18" because the majority of standard windows are anywhere from 45-72" tall. Personally, I prefer them closer to the 1/3 mark for a fuller, richer feel.

9) Kitchen cabinet height: 34-1/2" tall off the floor.

10) Kitchen cabinet wall installation height: 18" off the counter top or 54" above the floor.

11) Kitchen base (floor) cabinet width: 24"

12) Kitchen wall cabinet width: 12"

13) Kitchen counter top space by sink: 18-30" on one side and 48-54" on the other.

14) Kitchen countertop space by range: 12" minimum on one side and 15-24" on the other.

15) Microwave and built in oven counter top space: 15-18" on the right side assuming a left hinged door.

16) Dishwasher front space: 20" from the open dishwasher door to any obstruction or traffic.

17) Table: 36" between table and any traffic area or obstruction in order to have plenty of space to move chairs in and out.

18) Island and Breakfast Bar height: Standard cabinet height (34-1/2") for standard work area, 30" for table style seating, 42" for stool height.

19) Counter top height: 1 to 1-1/2" standard.

20) Bathroom cabinet depth: 18-20"

21) Bathroom cabinet height: Standard is 29" so with the
countertop it's like a table, but this is quite short for adults to use a sink. Some manufacturers are now making bathroom vanities at 32-33" tall. I used a compromise for our kids at about 31" plus the countertop.

22) Master bathroom cabinet height: While standard height is still 29", I'd recommend using something taller like a kitchen cabinet height of 34-35". However, you will not be able to use a standard bathroom counter top if you use a kitchen cabinet base as the widths are different (24" for a kitchen, 18" for a bath). You'll either need to get a custom countertop or a custom cabinet.

These measurements are important to know when designing and laying out a project or when hanging new light fixtures. Be sure to design enough space and to pick the correctly sized
accessories to fit and provide balance to your room. It's too late once the kitchen is built and the island is in to realize that you can't open your dishwasher all the way. Measure first and use this as a handy guide! Good luck.

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Measuring for Pinch-Pleated Draperies:



1. Determine your rod width.
Rods can be mounted on the window frame, on either side of the frame, on anyplace on a wall you want to cover. Decide where you’re going to put the brackets, then measure the width of the area between the brackets.

2. Determine your drapery width.
Measure the width of the area you want to cover, then add 12 inches.

3. Determine the drapery length.
The rod should be positioned at least 4 inches above the window so that the pleats are not seen from the outside. Measure for length from where the top of the rod will be to the desired length. Most common lengths are to the windowsill (see B in diagram), just below the window trim (C), or to the floor (D). For a “puddle” look, order the next longer length than your window-to-floor measurement. Where you place the top of the drapery pin determines where the drapery will fall, so if you’re using a decorative rod or pole with rings, measure from the eye of the hook or ring to the sill, apron, or floor.

If you’re using a standard rod, measure the distance from the top of the rod to where the draperies will hang. If floor length is desired and you have carpeting, subtract 1 inch for clearance.

If you’re using a decorative rod, measure the distance from the bottom of the rod to where the draperies will hang. If floor length is desired and you have carpeting, subtract 1 inch for clearance.

Refer to the diagram for help when measuring for any window treatment:
A = window width (including casing, if any)
B = length to windowsill
C = length to apron
D = length to floor.

Measuring for Rod-Pocket Curtains, Pole-Top Styles, and Top Treatments:

1. Determine the width
Measure the area to be covered. To create the fullness you desire, order 2 to 3 times the rod width for sheer or semi-sheer fabrics, and 1½ to 2 times the rod width if the fabric is opaque.

2. Determine the length.
Measure from where the top of the rod will be to the desired length - windowsill (B), apron (C), or floor (D), then add 1 inch to allow for header.

Allow ½ inch for floor or windowsill clearance.

http://www.marburn.com/curtains.html

SPECIAL MEASUREMENT CONSIDERATIONS:

Allow 1.3cm (½") clearance between the bottom of the drapery and the floor when measuring for floor-length draperies. This amount allows for cleaning and vacuuming, and provides sufficient clearance for electrical chords. Also, if draperies sag or if the floors are uneven, draperies will not drag on the floor.

Allow 2.5cm (1") clearance for loosely woven fabrics. This amount will provide an extra margin for them to stretch slightly without dragging on the floor.

Allow 1.3cm (½") clearance on sliding glass doors; more than this amount may let light gap at bottom.

Allow 10cm to 15cm (4" to 6") drapery clearance above baseboard heaters for safety.

Allow 6.5cm (2½") clearance if carpeting is not installed. This amount provides approximately 5cm (2") for carpeting and padding, plus 1.3cm (½").

Underdraperies should be 2.5cm (1") shorter, 1.3cm (½") at top and bottom so they do not show under the outer draperies.

Use the highest window in the room as a standard for measuring if windows are at different heights. Place all other draperies in the room at the same height from the floor.


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Measuring for art placement

hang paintings
 photo from www.jenniferyoung.com

HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS article
By Katherine Ernst
The quintessential Cape Cod Home is set close to the water with large windows encouraging the sun and sea breezes to enter. Its residents love and collect art, yet are usually not inclined to construct in-home galleries that meet archival standards for preservation. Our art is part of our enjoyment of every day life and as such joins us in our home and work environments.

Displaying Your Art
The appropriate display of art is influenced by the work you wish to display, other objects in the space, the function and size of the space.

Walls, windows, even plants and pets need to be considered in planning the presentation. You may begin by studying books and periodicals covering the finer points of displaying art. You may have already started by moving an assortment of furniture, originals and "stuff" into the room and then commenced experimenting. Ready to hang your favorite oil right now?

The most commonly asked question is: How high should I hang my paintings? Paintings are most easily enjoyed when the centerline is set at eye level. Hanging art above eye level requires the eyes to look up, forcing the neck back and causing a subtle strain that becomes wearing over time. The eye level is determined by the height of people in your home and whether they will be standing or seated when viewing the art.

Once the eye level is determined, measure the framed height of your painting. Divide by two. Add that number to the eye level and you know where the top of the frame is to be positioned. Now measure the distance from the top of the tensed wire to the top of the frame. Subtract that number from the point of the top of the frame and you have the height for your nail hole. Sounds a little fussy and complicated but it's not. For example, if the average eye level is 5 feet (60 inches), the framed painting is 20 inches in height, and the distance from the tensed wire to the top of the painting is 3 inches, your hanger should be placed 67 inches from the floor (60 + 10 - 3 = 67). Exceptions are made when art is placed above a high mantle or furniture

Several pieces evenly spaced along an extended wall can be quite compelling. Groupings of art tend to have a more intimate feeling. Similar small works can become a focal point when hung stacked above one another. Sculpture and plants enhance the viewer's involvement with a space. Three-dimensional art, inside or outside, can be placed to be admired from every angle and lit so that shadows become a part of the visual impact.

Several pieces evenly spaced along an extended wall can be quite compelling. Groupings of art tend to have a more intimate feeling. Similar small works can become a focal point when hung stacked.

This dramatic entrance draws the eye to Mystic Oysters, a highly-detailed egg tempera by Garry Gilmartin. The lighting above the seating area allows emphasis on two works of art. The nook works well for the flowers and small painting currently displayed, as well as for tall, slender sculptures. Stepping into the corridor, one has an opportunity to study the row of Demarais paintings. The antique kilim rug adds warmth and continuity.

“ The placement of a painting and the amount of surrounding wall space greatly influence the way a painting is perceived. Large paintings deserve to be hung to allow one to approach as well as to take in from a distance,” say architects Alan Dodge and Joy Cuming of South Wellfleet.

Rules for displaying art are informative guidelines. You are the true judge of a beautiful display. If you love walking into your home and are continually drawn to your art, you've done a great job.

Preserving Your Art
Now that we have considered placement, let's address the business of keeping your art safe and tidy. Homeowners are usually not inclined to construct in-home galleries that meet archival standards for preservation. Cape Cod homeowners can take precautions that will allow them to be continually inspired by their collections while preventing exposure to extremes in humidity, temperature and light.

Blinds, curtains and specially-treated windows can block out ultraviolet rays that can fade pigments. Incandescent light causes less fading but its intense heat can cause burning. Placing your art out of the range of the light pouring in your windows is a simple way to lessen the effects of harmful rays. If picture lights on individual paintings must be used, choose low-watt (25 or less) bulbs. Keep the light as far from the art as possible and turn the light on infrequently.

The diagonal placement of the couch maximizes the views of activity within the open space as well as the exterior landscape. The two oil paintings by Arnold Demarais are cozily balanced by the plant. They are lit by hidden track lighting which can be adjusted to properly light a continually-changing display of paintings and sculptures. Thomas W. McCanna’s Garden Doves bring new personalities to the living room while Al Davis’ sea gull adds a touch of whimsy to the hearth.

If you shut your home down for the winter and leave the heat off, your collection will be subject to drastic changes in temperature and humidity. In newer, well-sealed homes, a lack of circulation can encourage high humidity, increasing the risks of mold, fungus and mildew. Low humidity can cause cracking and shrinking. A total lack of light can alter pigments and promote mold growth on oil paintings.

Oil paintings are somewhat protected from the elements with a varnish coat applied by the artist. Prints, watercolors and pastels are framed under glass or Plexiglas to preserve the paper. Artists and framers have been aware of the importance of using only acid-free paper and mats for decades. Using archival materials when doing your own framing will prolong the life of your art.

It is strongly advised that cherished works of art be cleaned or restored only by experienced professionals. Regular dusting of frames should be done carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth. When cleaning glass, a damp cloth will prevent static electricity from drawing paper or pastel dust towards the glass. Never apply water or glass cleaner directly to the glass as it can run along the glass and onto the art.

As diligent as you may be in caring for your collection, you will want to confer with your insurance agent regarding unforeseen circumstances. Be sure to update your policy as the value of your collection increases.

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Learn About Ceiling Fans

outdoor ceiling fans

Today ceiling fans are an important part of creating the perfect home decor. In the last 10 years ceiling fans have become more technologically advanced, providing cooling in the summer months and warming in the winter months to save you on your energy bill drastically.

Fans can reduce prices on your energy bill up to 40percent in the summer and 10percent in the winter, using only as much as energy as a 100 watt light bulb. During the summer fans create a "cooling effect" lowering temperatures as much as 7 degrees and recirculating the heat in the winter to the living area. Fans are being used now not only in the main rooms in your home but also in patios, verandas, kitchens and bathrooms where dampness may be an issue.

Ceiling fans may differ in prices, consumers should study the differences before making a purchase. Inexpensive fans will look good when they are new, in time they will start to warp, become off-balance, and wear out quickly. Pay attention to the details to pick a good high quality fan for your home. Ceiling fans can provide years of comfort and beauty if you pay attention to the quality, motor, durability, performance, design and warranty.

Find a fan to coordinate your individual home style by choosing the color, finish, blade design, size, accessories, lighting and style. There are many styles to choose from, some of these include: polished brass, antique brass, iron, copper, nickel, pewter, chrome, black, vibrant colors, oak, rosewood and other real wood veneers.

Consider these details before selecting a new fan for your home:

Fan Size:
For maximum efficiency choose a fan to fit your room size. In a room up to 75 square feet like a bathroom choose a 29"- 36" fan. Medium sized rooms up to 144 square feet can fit ceiling fans from 36"- 42". The larger bedrooms and family rooms around 225 square feet work most efficient with fans that are 50"- 54".

Height from the ceiling:
Place the fan higher than 7 feet above the floor in the middle of the room for maximum comfort, circulation, safety and aesthetics. Optimal placement would be either 8 or 9 feet from the floor.

Blades:
Fan blades determine the amount of air being circulated throughout the room. The fan blade brackets should be positioned to hold the blade at a 12-15 degree angle for optimal circulation and be weighed and matched as a balanced set to avoid having your fan wobble. A fan with less than a 12 degree angle will not circulate air as well and be less efficient. The greater the angle of the blade the more air circulation you will have in your room. Blades should be made with wood or acrylic and be sealed and treated to resist humidity. Ask your ALA showroom representative for any additional questions on fan blades or angles.

Motor:
The heart of every ceiling fan is the motor. The motor is responsible for producing quiet operation while driving the blades for air movement. Look for high-quality motors with heavy-duty windings and sealed bearings that are permanently lubricated. Smaller, less powerful motors found on lower quality fans may produce higher operating temperatures, lower air circulation and noisier operation. Motors are designed to work flawlessly for long periods of time and should have a long lasting life.

Lights:
To add the finishing touches, choose from classic to contemporary lights to complement the look of your fan. Opal, marble, crystal, glass and hand blown glass can also be added to a fitter or fixture shade to enhance the design. Light kits can also be added or custom designed to match your home d cor. For a more relaxed environment uplighting is available, the light bounces off the ceiling to create more of a mood effect than the traditional downlighting.

Finish:
Finish makes the fan blades more durable. A high quality finish will resist against blistering, tarnishing, fading and corrosion. Less advanced finishes on the fan blades can be very fragile and start to peel, bubble and corrode quickly. Brass finishes are long lasting, scratch resistant and never need polishing. Painted finishes are thick, rich and durable as a result of the advanced painting process.

Warranty:
When you choose to purchase look for a good warranty for the life of your fan. Some fan manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty and in-home service.

Installation:
Installation can be so easy that with a few basic skills one person can install the product themselves. With step by step instructions your new fan can be up and working efficiently. Some fans come with a support system to assist you by freeing your hands to make wiring connections. For extra help ask your ALA showroom representative how to get assistance with hanging your new fan in your home.

Visit our Member companies at:

Casablanca http://www.casablancafanco.com/
Emerson http://www.emersonfans.com/
Craftmade http://www.craftmade.com/
Minka Group http://www.minkausa.com/
Monte Carlo http://www.montecarlofans.com/
http://www.americanlightingassoc.com/info_ceilingfan




Mount-Style
There are three types of ceiling fan mounts -- flush mount, downrod and tri-mount. A ceiling-hugging flush mount is designed for rooms with low ceilings (eight feet or less) or where you want a less obtrusive fan. No downrod is needed.

For rooms with higher ceilings, downrods bring the circulating action of your fan down into the living space. Downrods come in a variety of lengths for just about any ceiling height. Sloped ceilings require an angled mount, sold separately.

The options of a tri-mount let you fit your fan to your room for the best circulation whether you have a low, high or angled ceiling.

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How do I choose a rug? sizes, materials, design

With all the styles and colors available, choosing an area rug that integrates with your décor isn't hard. However, there are a few factors to weigh before you buy your rug.

Consider what you want the focal point of the room to be. If you want the rug to serve as a focal point, consider choosing one with a central medallion. However, if there is another obvious focal point of the room, such as fireplace, you may want to use a rug with a more repetitive pattern but no medallion.

Take into account the patterns on the upholstery and walls in the room, so they don't compete with each other. If you have upholstery or wallpaper with an ornate pattern, choose a subtler pattern for the area rug. If the walls and upholstery are fairly subdued, you can try a busier pattern to add more interest to the room.

Notice how much traffic the area receives. In high traffic areas, selecting a rug with a detailed pattern may be more practical. The more pattern, the lower maintenance.

Choose a rug with colors that coordinate with your décor. While all the colors in the rug don't have to match the colors in the room, at least one color should. Take swatches of wallpaper, paint, or upholstery fabric with you when you shop.

Remember that lighter-colored rugs will make the room seem more spacious and darker colors in the rug will bring a cozy atmosphere to the room.

Keep in mind that texture is an important element in your décor also. Several different fibers within a rug or carved areas can add more pizzazz to an area rug's texture. Rugs made of sisal or jute add an interesting texture to smooth hardwood or tile floors.

Don't feel limited to rectangles. Octagonal or circular rugs add a unique touch to a room.

CAN I USE DIFFERENT RUGS IN THE SAME ROOM?
You can use rugs of different patterns within the same room as long as the color coordinates.

Using two rugs of the same size may tend to divide the room in half. Select rugs of differing sizes to create more interest and contrast.

To make your decision easier, many rug manufacturers make rugs in different sizes that are designed to coordinate with each other.

WHAT SIZE RUG DO I NEED?

Under the coffee table:

Typically 4' x 6' or 6' x 9' area rugs will work well under coffee tables. The size you should choose depends on the size of your coffee table and surrounding furnishings.

The area rug should be large enough to accommodate all four legs of the table.

The area rug should be approximately the same length and width of the furnishings in the space.

To accent the furnishings most effectively, leave some flooring between the area rug and the furniture exposed.

Under a dining room table:

Most dining room tables will need an 8-foot wide area rug.

The chair legs shouldn't fall off the rug when people are seated at the table or pulling the chairs away from the table to seat themselves.

To determine what size rug you need, measure the length and width of the table and add at least 4 feet to each measurement.

For an entire room:

Try to leave an equal amount of flooring exposed as a border on all sides. If that is not possible, try to ensure the borders on parallel sides of the rug are equal.

For many rooms an 8' x 11' rug will work well.

It's okay if the front legs of the furniture are on the rug and the back legs are off the rug, as long as the piece is stable and balanced. You may need to place furniture coasters under the back legs to raise them to the height of the rug.

Why do I need a rug pad?
Many people realize that rug pads keep the rug properly positioned, preventing it from sliding and wrinkling. But did you know rug pads also:

Reduce wear and tear on the rug.
Help to absorb the impact of feet and noise.
Make vacuuming easier.
Protect smooth-surface flooring, like hardwood or laminate, from being scratched by back of the rug.
For rugs placed over carpet, choose a pad of thin polyester fabric coated with adhesive. This type of pad will prevent a dark rug color from bleeding through on a light carpet. A pad made from slightly heavier polyester scrim coated with PVC will hold a rug firmly on wood or other smooth-surfaced floors.

FIBERS
Originally, area rugs were made from wool or cotton. Today, you have a choice between several natural or synthetic fibers. So what's the best choice? It all depends on how much traffic the area will receive, how easy the rug is to maintain and, of course, how much you're willing to spend.

Synthetic Fibers

Acrylic — Highly resistant to sunlight, stains and mildew. You'll mostly find acrylic fibers in bath mats and rugs.

Polypropylene/Olefin — The most stain-resistant synthetic fiber on the market today. Polypropylene will repel water and is impervious to most stains. Usually less expensive than other fibers.

Nylon — Versatile, durable, easy to maintain and clean. Withstands heavy foot traffic.
Natural Fibers

Wool — Dyeability, durability, softness and cleanability make wool the superior fiber. Wool is the standard by which all other carpet fibers are measured.

Cotton — Softer than wool but less durable. Available in a variety of colors.

Jute — The softest of all natural fibers. When exposed to direct sunlight, jute may fade or darken in color. With prolonged exposure to moisture, the fiber disintegrates.

Sisal — Stronger and more durable than any natural rug fiber. And since sisal is static-free and colorfast, it makes it perfect for just about any area.
Blends — Two or more of these fibers that have been combined in one rug.

WEAVING METHODS

The following definitions of common weaving terms rugs will give you a better grasp of how rugs get from the weaver's hand or loom to your feet.

Hand Hooked — The weaver pushes a hooking tool through the foundation cloth to the front of the rug, then pulls the yarn to the back, leaving a loop on the surface.
Hand Knotted — Each knot is individually tied by hand. These knots are single strands of yarn that have been looped around two adjacent warp threads.
Hand Tufted — An inked-on foundation cloth is stretched over a loom. Then a manually operated hand-tufting gun pushes the yarn through the back of the cloth. When the rug is taken off the loom, a scrim and layer of latex is placed on the back. A back-cloth is then sewed on to the latex and scrim to protect your floors.
Jacquard — A mechanized loom that has an endless belt of punched cards. The holes in the card are arranged to produce the weave of the rug.
Wilton Loom — These rugs bear a close resemblance to hand-knotted rugs, but are machine made. The pile is woven between two backings and then split down the middle — so you get two separate rugs.


RUG LINGO
Here are some words every rug shopper should know. Not only will you feel confident about your rug decision; you'll really impress the salesperson.

Hand Carved — Using hand shears, the weaver cuts a design in to the rug. The carving and sculpturing give the rug a distinctive and unique look.
Heat Set — A process polypropylene goes through to put a twist in the yarn. When the yarn is set with heat, it will have a wool-like appearance.
Line Count — One indicator of rug quality is the number of knots or stitches per square inch. When comparing the line count number of different rugs, it's important to remember that this number may be calculated differently, depending on how and where the rug was made.
Pile — The surface yarn that makes up the face of the rug.
Stitches/Needle Count — The number of loops of yarn. The higher the stitch or needle count, the denser the rug. Higher density rugs will last longer and wear better than more loosely woven constructions.
Warp and Wefts — The warp yarn is the stationary thread on the loom. These fibers are the strongest part of the rug. They are intersected with wefts — the filling yarn that is woven though the warps.
Border — The border is composed of decorative designs repeated in one direction around the outside of the rug.
Field— The field is the background of the rug inside the border. It may be a solid color or patterned.
Medallion — The medallion is a round or oval design in the center of the rug.


How large should my cupola be?


The most common mistake made in ordering a cupola is underestimating how large it should be. Remember, a cupola always looks smaller once it is up on the roof.

A good rule of thumb is this: ALLOW AT LEAST ONE INCH OF CUPOLA BASE WIDTH FOR EVERY FOOT OF UNBROKEN ROOF LINE. If you have any doubts in your situation please call and we will help you.

How do I determine the pitch of my roof?

To save you the trouble, we ship our cupolas with the base pitch already cut out of the base to conform to the pitch of your roof. So we need to know your roof pitch. Here's how to determine it:

1. Nail two approximately 3-foot-long studs together at one end, using one nail. Place the studs on top of your roof as shown in the diagram below, be sure to account for the extra height the ridge shingle may add then, draw pencil lines on the studs where they cross each other. Secure them in that position by driving another nail or two through the two studs where they cross.

2. Draw a 24" X 24" square. Measure 12" across and draw a line from top to bottom. Place the joined studs so that the point where the studs cross intersects the line, and the edges of the studs line up with the bottom corners of the square.

3. Measure, in inches, the distance from the bottom edge of the square to where the two studs intersect the line. This number is the "rise," and is the first number in the pitch. The second number is the "run", and is 12. So, for example, if you measured 7", the pitch of your roof with 7/12, pronounced "Seven over twelve."




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